The world of skin boosters is advancing and changing rapidly. Only a few years ago, most skin boosters were associated with addressing skin hydration, which, at the time, was exciting new terrain. Today, though, there are many different types of skin boosters available, and while they all aim to address skin quality, they have different objectives and different mechanisms of action.
In this article, we explain the core differences between hydrating and biostimulatory skin boosters, why polynucleotides are different again, and also why it’s important to understand that there is sometimes an overlap.
What are skin boosters?
A skin booster is a cosmetic medicine treatment designed to address overall skin quality, hydration and radiance rather than adding structural volume. During treatment, a cosmetic nurse or doctor administers specific substances directly to the skin (the dermis) at carefully selected depths.
Unlike other products that add volume or definition to the face, skin boosters have a thinner consistency that spreads evenly across the treated area. They can be used on the face, neck, decolletage and the back of the hands. Depending on your aesthetic goals, your cosmetic practitioner may use one or more formulations which can work in different ways.
Understanding your skin and the extracellular matrix
Your skin contains a complex network of substances called the extracellular matrix (ECM). It forms a strong, flexible support system, a bit like scaffolding, and is made mainly of collagen, elastin and hydrating sugars. It helps provide the skin with hydration, strength, elasticity and structural support. Its key components are:
- Collagen – a tough protein that gives skin its main tensile strength and firmness
- Elastin – a flexible protein that lets the skin stretch and snap back into place
- Proteoglycans – molecules that help organise and support the extracellular matrix
- hyaluronic acid – a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan that binds water and helps maintain skin hydration
- Fibroblasts – the main cells in the dermis that produce collagen, elastin and many of the components that make up the extracellular matrix
As we age, the ECM changes, contributing to dryness, fine lines and reduced elasticity. Many skin boosters were designed to target some of these age-related changes.
Types of skin boosters
Before we start, it’s important to address some confusion. If you Google ‘skin boosters’, you may find some varied or conflicting information. This is because the term ‘skin boosters’ is a marketing term and not a scientific classification. As a result, different manufacturers use the term to describe products with quite different mechanisms of action.
We won’t go into all the mechanisms here, but to help minimise the confusion, think of it as follows.
Skin boosters exist on a spectrum. Some focus primarily on hydration, while others place greater emphasis on stimulating the skin’s own regenerative processes. Many new products combine both mechanisms.
Hydrating skin boosters
Hydrating skin boosters were one of the first boosters to hit the market in Australia, some 14 years ago. They may contain hyaluronic acid, which naturally attracts water, and are designed to increase skin hydration. This can result in softer-feeling skin, smoother skin texture, more luminosity and a reduced appearance of fine lines associated with dehydration.
It’s important to note, however, that some hydrating skin boosters may also influence collagen production to varying degrees.
Bio-stimulating skin boosters
These skin boosters work differently to hydrating skin boosters. They are designed to stimulate fibroblasts activity, supporting the production of collagen, elastin and other components of the extracellular matrix.
Keep in mind, again, that many modern skin boosters combine both hydrating and bio-stimulatory effects, so the distinction is not always clear-cut.
So, where do polynucleotides fit?
Polynucleotides are often mentioned these days. (You may have heard of Rejuran, which contains polynucleotides – DNA derived molecules, often sourced from salmon.)
Polynucleotides are a type of bio-stimulatory treatment, but they have a different mechanism of action to others.
Polynucleotides contain DNA-derived molecules that appear to support tissue repair, fibroblast activity, hydration and extracellular matrix remodelling. Their action is generally considered to involve supporting the skin’s healing environment rather than relying solely on an inflammatory response that underpins some traditional collagen-stimulating treatments.
This is why many experts discuss them separately (from other biostimulators) because they represent a different approach to skin rejuvenation.
Which skin booster is right for me?
There is no single ‘best’ skin booster. The most appropriate treatment depends on your skin concerns, age, skin condition and treatment goals. Some people may benefit from a treatment that focuses primarily on hydration, while others may be better suited to a treatment designed to support collagen production or tissue regeneration.
During your consultation at Samara Aesthetics, your registered cosmetic nurse will recommend the approach they believe is most appropriate for your skin.
In summary
While it’s helpful to think of skin boosters as either hydrating or biostimulatory, the reality is often more nuanced. Many newer treatments combine multiple mechanisms to support hydration, collagen production and overall skin quality.
Understanding these differences hopefully helps you understand the products your practitioner recommends and helps your practitioner tailored treatment recommendations to your individual skin concerns.
